Skip to main content
Thailand sabbatical

In the footsteps of the Khmer and Songkran in Thailand

This spring, I’m heading back to Thailand and Cambodia – on a journey that drifts between silent Khmer temples, endless bus rides, northern road-trip adventures, and what may well be the wettest finale on Earth: Songkran. From Bangkok to Siem Reap, from jungle paths to mega-cities, from goosebump moments to full buckets of water to the face. A route that doesn’t try to be perfect, just real. And that’s exactly why it has already stolen my heart.

Reiseblog24 | In the footsteps of the Khmer and Songkran in Thailand

In the footsteps of the Khmer – and right into the heart of Songkran chaos

There are these strange, gentle days between Christmas and New Year when the world turns the volume down for a moment. That’s exactly when my wanderlust shows up—punctual and persistent. While others debate the fate of leftover raclette, I’m sitting there with a cup of coffee and a stack of maps, plotting journeys. This spring, Thailand is calling again—and this time, very deliberately off the beaten path.

The northeast is on the agenda. Temple complexes that don’t fight for attention. National parks that whisper rather than shout. I want to see what remains when you stop rushing. What a place tells you when you actually listen. After that, I’ll meet Sabine in Bangkok—this city that somehow hugs you and overwhelms you at the same time—and together we’ll fly on to Cambodia.

That’s where we really dive into Khmer history: first Phnom Penh, then overland to Siem Reap. Long bus rides as a reality check. Days spent among temples, stones, and stories that carry real weight. The remains of the Khmer dynasties aren’t just monumental—they quiet you down. And honestly, that’s all it takes to truly connect with this country.

Back we go to Bangkok. And then comes the part I’m almost childishly excited about: a road trip. From Bangkok via Ayutthaya to Chiang Rai, Chiang Mai, and on to Kanchanaburi. Curves, coffee stops, happy accidents. And finally, back to Bangkok again—this time to give the megacity the attention it deserves.

The finale? Wet. Very wet. Songkran in Phuket—this legendary festival where water becomes a universal language and no one stays dry, but everyone is equal. Before that, we treat ourselves to Khao Sok National Park: rainforest, silence, that deep, saturated green that briefly makes you feel like you’re breathing properly again.

The recurring border tensions between Thailand and Cambodia linger in the back of our minds. We’re watching closely, staying realistic—and still decided to plan this route and, if it remains responsible, to travel it. Travel was never just about comfort zones. Sometimes it’s about trust. And that alone already makes this trip special.

Even now, while planning, I can feel it: this won’t be a perfect journey. But it will be an honest one. And that’s exactly what I’m looking forward to.

Thailand sabbatical
Cambodia in the footsteps of the Khmer dynasty

Cambodia is not a country you can just “do” quickly. It’s more the kind of place that gently asks you to stop for a moment. To take a breath. And to resist treating everything as a backdrop for the next pretty photo. The history of the Khmer Rouge isn’t finished here, not neatly filed away and archived—it still lingers between houses, in faces, sometimes simply in the silence.

I know this journey won’t be an easy one. But it feels like the right one. Because if you want to understand why this country is the way it is today, you’re allowed—no, required—to face its past. In Phnom Penh, I don’t just want to count tuk-tuks, drink coffee, and sit by the Mekong (even though I will absolutely do all of that). I want to understand how people live with a chapter of history so brutal that you’d never wish it upon anyone—and yet, it has to be told.

You hear a lot about the temples. About Angkor. About overwhelming beauty and sunrises that bring Instagram to its knees. And yes, all of that will be part of this journey. But just as much so are the places where things go quiet. Places like Tuol Sleng or the Killing Fields—names you recognize long before you truly understand what they mean. What drives me is the question of how people live with these memories today. How everyday life works when the past is still so loud. And how, despite everything, people laugh, love, raise children, and look forward.

At the same time, I’m deeply curious about modern Cambodia. The here and now. What does life look like in this millennium, caught between tradition, religion, and global change? Is it shaped by Buddhist calm—or simply by pragmatism? By hope—or by daily improvisation? Probably a bit of everything, like life often is, just more honestly. I’m just as interested in today as I am in yesterday. What does life in Cambodia feel like right now? Easy? Definitely not. Challenging? Absolutely. Deeply influenced by religion? In many moments, yes. Or do people here—perhaps because of lived experience—exist more consciously in the present than we Europeans do, with our calendars, apps, and constant self-optimization?

I travel with respect, curiosity, and no expectation of quick answers. Maybe that’s the greatest luxury of this journey: having time to listen. And to accept that adventure isn’t always loud, wild, or spectacular. Sometimes it consists of becoming quiet, of empathizing—and, in the end, of feeling grateful that you get to leave again, while others stay and continue living their lives. With dignity. And an astonishing amount of strength.

Thailand road trip – asphalt, wanderlust and a wet finale

Thailand from the center up to the north and then all the way back down south—that’s the rough outline of our plan. Rough being the key word. Because as always when traveling, the map looks far more orderly than reality ever will. And that, really, is part of the charm.

I start in Bangkok, that never-quite-silent metropolis that manages to hug you and overwhelm you at the same time. From there, the route heads first into the northeast, close to the Cambodian border. How far I’ll actually get has less to do with my sense of adventure and more with the political situation on the ground. A land border crossing isn’t possible at the moment—so pragmatism wins: airplane instead of border post. Not ideal, but travel also means accepting that not everything bends to your plans.

Back in Thailand, the part I’m most excited about begins: a proper road trip. Our first stop is the old Siamese capital of Ayutthaya, where history doesn’t sit behind glass but simply exists—between ruins, trees, and glowing sunsets. From there, we head further north to Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai. Winding roads, mountains, temples, markets—and that feeling that Thailand breathes a little differently up here.

On the way back toward Bangkok, we pause in Kanchanaburi province. A region of striking natural beauty that also carries a quiet reminder that history here hasn’t always been gentle. It’s exactly this mix of nature, calm, and reflection that makes the place so special to me.

From Bangkok, the journey continues south to Phuket. Waiting there are the rainforests around Khao Sok National Park, emerald-green water, surreal limestone cliffs rising from the reservoir—and that humbling sense of suddenly feeling very small. With a bit of luck, there’ll even be time for one or two dives, those moments when the rest of the world simply dissolves.

And then, as the grand finale: Songkran in Phuket. Wet. Loud. Warm-hearted. Boundless. A festival that doesn’t ask whether you’d like to participate—you’re already in it. And that’s exactly how this trip should end: slightly exhausted, very happy, and with that quiet thought in the back of my mind that maybe, just maybe, it’s already time to set off again.

Meine Empfehlungen (*), hier habe ich gute bis sehr gute Erfahrungen gemacht....


Reiseblog24 • Long-haul & Adventure Travel – Top Headlines Status: March 2026 (Thailand)
1) Entry update: Thailand Digital Arrival Card (TDAC) is mandatory

Thailand requires all non-Thai travellers to submit the TDAC online (in English), typically within 72 hours (3 days) before arrival. It is not a visa, but skipping it is a great way to turn immigration into an avoidable headache.
Source: Royal Thai Embassy BerlinThai Immigration (TDAC)

2) Travel safety: “exercise increased caution” style guidance (official notices)

Several authorities advise increased caution in Thailand, including due to possible unrest. Some areas may carry additional risk notes. If you travel beyond the standard loop, check official updates before departure and stay flexible on the ground.
Source: U.S. State Department – ThailandFDFA (Switzerland) – Thailand: Security

3) Bangkok & major cities: protests can disrupt traffic and access at short notice

Demonstrations can lead to road closures, rerouting, and increased police presence. Practical takeaway: build buffer time into transfers, avoid crowded hotspots if things escalate, and follow local guidance.
Source: U.S. Embassy Bangkok – Demonstration Alert

4) 2026 trend: Thailand remains in high demand, Bangkok especially strong

Recent booking/trend reporting places Thailand very high for 2026, with Bangkok highlighted as a top-booked city. Expect the usual real-world effects: peak-season price pressure, earlier sell-outs, and more crowding at “must-see” spots.
Source: TAT News (Tourism Authority of Thailand)

5) Flight news: additional regional connectivity into Bangkok from April 2026

Drukair announced the return of Paro – Guwahati – Bangkok flights starting April 2026. For travellers, that means extra regional routing options and more flexibility around Thailand itineraries.
Source: The Economic Times – Drukair Bangkok Flights

Temples, tuk-tuks & epic water fights

The route begins in northeastern Thailand, where temples, national parks, and plenty of space to breathe set the tone. From there, it’s on to Bangkok—straight into urban chaos—and then directly onward to Cambodia. Via Phnom Penh, the journey continues by bus to Siem Reap and the legendary temples of the Khmer. Back in Thailand, the road trip begins: from Ayutthaya through Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai to Kanchanaburi—curves, coffee stops, and happy accidents included. The finale brings rainforest immersion in Khao Sok National Park and Songkran in Phuket. A route shaped by history, adventure, and a very enthusiastic water fight.

Meine Empfehlungen (*), hier habe ich gute bis sehr gute Erfahrungen gemacht....


Thailand – a journey that doesn't ask questions, but takes you along for the ride

Sometimes a journey doesn’t start with a ticket, but with a feeling. That quiet pull somewhere between wanderlust and curiosity. Thailand is exactly that kind of place for me. Not a country you simply “visit.” Thailand happens to you. Uninvited. Intense. And often precisely when you think you have a plan.

This series is not a classic travel guide. It’s a state of being on the move. On roads winding through mountains. In cities that hug you and overwhelm you at the same time. And in moments that stay with you, even though they don’t appear on any map. I start in Bangkok, where heat, horns, and street food speak their own language. From there, I drift outward—into quieter regions, north and south alike—always chasing that feeling that the best things usually wait where you didn’t plan for them.

Asia doesn’t show only its postcard side here. There are detours, political realities, spontaneous changes of plan. Things that annoy you. Things that make you pause. And that’s part of it. Traveling isn’t about filtering everything into something pretty—it’s about looking, listening, and sometimes accepting that not everything is possible. That’s exactly when a journey becomes honest.

Between temples, rainforest, asphalt, and ocean, this series is about encounters. About short conversations by the roadside, about sunrises you meant to sleep through, and evenings where you stay longer than planned. It’s about freedom, respect—and about that wonderful chaos that makes Asia so uniquely fascinating for us Europeans.

And in the end, there’s no quiet farewell waiting, but a loud, soaking-wet, heartfelt finale: Songkran. A New Year’s festival that doesn’t ask how your year has been—it simply resets you.

This is my Thailand / Cambodia blog. Personal. Imperfect. On the road. Hop in. The engine’s already running.

Powered by GetYourGuide
Powered by GetYourGuide
Highlights for your adventure in Asia

Here are 10 highlights for your Cambodia–Thailand trip – written with wanderlust in my heart, dust on my shoes and a twinkle in my eye. I can already see myself standing there, somewhere between temple ruins and street food stalls, thinking: this is exactly why we travel.🌏✨

Sunrise at Angkor Wat

I get up far too early – and still I'm not the first one there. When the sun slowly rises behind the towers of Angkor Wat, even the grumpiest morning person falls silent. It's a moment that feels like taking a deep breath of history. Magical. Awe-inspiring. And yes: absolutely world-famous, and rightly so.

Siem Reap by night – between street food and stories

Temples by day, hustle and bustle by night. Siem Reap smells of barbecued food, adventure and a touch of chaos. I sit on a plastic chair, eating something delicious whose name I don't know, and think: I don't need anything else right now.

Überland durch Kambodscha – Entschleunigung pur

Busfahrten, staubige Straßen, Reisfelder bis zum Horizont. Kambodscha ist kein Land für Eile. Es zwingt mich freundlich, aber bestimmt, langsamer zu werden – und genau das tut gut.

Arriving in Bangkok – sensory overload with heart

Bangkok is not a gentle introduction, but rather a leap into a colourful pool. Heat, tuk-tuks, temples, neon lights. I briefly lose my bearings – and find myself somewhere between a food stall and the Skytrain. Love at second sight. At least.

Rooftop evening above the city rooftops

A drink, a birthday, a view over a sea of lights. Seen from above, Bangkok is suddenly calm, almost elegant. The perfect place to pause for a moment and quietly say thank you – for being on the move, for life, for the present moment.

The north is calling: Chiang Mai

The moment when Thailand slows down. Temples in the morning mist, cafés with soul and conversations that linger. Chiang Mai feels like a good book – you don't want it to end too quickly.

Jungle & silence in Khao Sok National Park

Here, nature takes command. Primeval forest, limestone cliffs, sounds that cannot be classified. I lie awake, listening – and feel small. In a good way.

Water as home – floating accommodation

Falling asleep with a view of the water, waking up with mist over the lake. No Wi-Fi, no noise, no obligations. Just me, the landscape and this feeling of being exactly where I should be.

Island time in the south – thinking barefoot

Whether in the Andaman Sea or the Gulf of Thailand, at some point I take off my shoes – and leave them off. Salt on my skin, sand between my toes, my thoughts in energy-saving mode. This is what freedom feels like.

A wistful farewell – and new plans

In the end, there is this tugging sensation in my stomach. The pain of parting mixed with gratitude. I already know that this was not my last visit. Cambodia and Thailand do not let you go easily – they travel with you for a while.


🌞 Conclusion: More than just a journey

In the end, there is no clean break, but rather a comma. Cambodia and Thailand are not destinations that you can simply tick off – they quietly settle somewhere between your heart and your memory. I take with me the dust from temple paths, the noise of Bangkok, the silence of the jungle and that warm feeling of having been in the right place at the right time. It was intense, sometimes chaotic, often touching – and that's exactly why it was so valuable. A journey that not only took me through countries, but also a little way inside myself.

Michael Lieder | Reiseblog24

Thailand / Cambodia on the blog

My recommendations (*), based on very good personal experiences…